Destroying an Amazon Echo Show 5 Gen 2

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I decided that I had no interest in Amazon having the ability to blast adverts at me, so I turned it into (mostly) e-waste.

This is an Amazon Echo Show 5 Gen 2. I got it a couple of years ago. It’s useful as a way to show the weather, but I am definitely not on board with having a capitalism blasted into my face.

It had to go.

I am far from being the first person to do this, and there’s nothing here that’s new. I’m just an idiot destroying things, so if you’re trying to do something useful you should check out these too:-

Opening the damn thing

An Amazon Echo Show 5 Gen 2

The first order of business is to get the thing open. There’s no obvious screws on the outside, which means they’re hidden. The prime suspect here is the large rubber pad on the bottom.

It’s spudgin’ time

It turns out this is glued down and can be ‘encouraged’ to pop off with an appropriate spudger, revealing a set of screws.

Close up of the case screws, gunk included

At this point I should apologise for the gunk in these close-ups. Being an uncoordinated idiot, I managed to knock over a glass of water on my desk at some point in the past few years, and the casing clearly decided to suck up whatever crap was on my desk.

The screws seem to be a T6 Torx – this is the driver I used here.

Please excuse my filthy fingernails – I promise they’re not normally this bad

Going in

Removing these screws and popping open the casing to feast on the goo inside reveals the main board on one side, against the back of the screen.

The main board

The main board is connected to the back of the casing via 2 ribbon cables and a single two-pin cable. One of the ribbon cables goes to a smaller board mounted on the bottom of the rear part of the case, and the other one goes behind the large, copper-covered block above it along with the two-pin cable. Another ribbon cable goes from the small board on the bottom of the rear part of the case to the top of the front part of the case.

The connections between the front and back of the case
Close up of the connections between the front and back of the case, after disconnection

After popping these cables out, the screws holding the main board into the front of the case are the same T6 Torx type used on the outside of the case, albeit much shorter.

Moving to the side of the main board, there’s 3 more ribbon cables. 1 goes up to the top of the front of the case to the the camera module, and the other 2 appear to go behind the main board to the screen. 2 are the same kind of connector used on the top side of the main board, but the 3rd is slightly different with the locking mechanism being on the other side of the socket.

Close up of the connectors from the main board to the front of the case

Disconnecting these ribbon cables allows us to pop the main board out of the front part of the case, getting a better look at it.

The back of the main board

Moving to the top of the front part of the case, the small board across the top – which handles the buttons at the top of the device – is held in with small Philips-style screws. One of them is hidden under a piece of tape.

Button board and camera module

For reference, the screws appear to be a #000 size head.

More fingernail horrors

The small metal piece is also lightly glued to the small board at the top, and will pop out with a bit of encouragement.

Oh hello screw

This leaves the small board free to come out too, along with the rubber button covers.

The button module
The rubber button covers and camera switch

Poking in the rear

Moving to the rear part of the case, the large copper-covered block – which is the speaker – is held in again with T6 Torx screws, this time with wide heads.

Front on view of the rear of the case

Removing these 4 screws allows the speaker to come out, revealing the final board. This handles the power, USB and external speaker connections.

The rear of the case after removing the speaker

The board at the bottom of the case is again – you guessed it – held in with T6 Torx screws. This looks to be the microphones, based on the writing on the ribbon cables and the screen printing on the rear.

The front of the microphone board
The rear of the microphone board
The connectors for the microphone board

Our friend the T6 Torx is also holding in the connector board.

The rear of the connector board
The front of the connector board

At this point we’ve basically disassembled the whole thing, however…

That bastard screen

As you’ve no doubt noticed, the screen is secured within the front part of the case. Unfortunately, the only way for it to come out is from the front, and the glass on the front is glued in. It will not come out without a fight and I gave up after narrowly avoiding firing a sliver of glass into my eye. You have been warned.

Fuck you

A closer look

I don’t have any particular plans for the remains, but I did clean up some of the photos to make it easier to identify things.

Front side of the button board
Back side of the button board
Front side of the main board
Back side of the main board
Front side of the microphone board
Back side of the microphone board
Front side of the connector board
Back side of the connector board
Close up of part of the front side of the main board
Close up of part of the front side of the main board
Close up of part of the front side of the main board
Close up of part of the front side of the main board
Close up of one of the ribbon cables to the screen, showing the Goodix GT911 used for controlling the touch screen
Close up of two of the ribbon cables to the screen, showing the markings on the cables
Close up of the camera module

Next steps

There’s some bits I’m thinking of salvaging from this, but that’s a topic for a future post. For now, this is sitting in my junk box – okay, who am I kidding, one of many of my junk boxes – until I remember it’s there.

References


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